Ultimate guide to purchasing a used ATV, Motorcycle or Side x Side
Used Motorcycle Buying Guide
Shopping for a used motorcycle can be very challenging. There is tons of used ATV’s, Motorcycles, Jetskis and side by sides available from facebook marketplace to cycle trader. The trouble is how do you know what your buying is good? Buying a used bike is a great route for those who don't want to spend a lot of money on a new ride. These are the things I've learned to look for over the years and I hope it helps someone.
Trust no private seller! Private sellers may not disclose any and all issues with the vehicle. Consult the seller and ask if they are willing to have a 3rd party inspection. Ask the seller to provide any receipts of service history or repairs. Just because a vehicle is clean does not mean it was cared for.
Never feel pressured to not go through the list below. Print it off because you will forget things in the moment. Buying a bike is high stress. You're excited about the bike, he wants to sell it, you have a wad of cash in your pocket and want to make sure you're not getting screwed.
Dealbreakers: Walk away if... 1:The title is not in the sellers name. 2:The vin on the frame doesn't match the vin on the title (People below point out that the engine matching may not apply to certain makes). 3:The title is a salvage/ rebuild. 4:The bike doesn't run. Trust me, if all it needed was a battery, the seller could've gotten one and sold the bike for much more. Even if he jumps it and it runs (charging system may be frying every new battery for example). 5:The bike is warmed up (see below).
Battery. Before doing anything get out your meter and measure the battery voltage. Should be around 12.5-12.7.
Cold Start. I tell every seller before coming over not to warm it up. You want to see this baby from dead cold. You never know what kind of coaxing the seller did right before you arrived. Verify the headers are cool, then start it.
Engine Noise. Listen for valve/ timing chain chatter. Youtube can give you good examples. On some bikes a little chatter is normal during warmup, but it should go away. A very general rule of thumb is the top end should sound like a sewing machine.
Revving. Once the bike is warm give the throttle a few blips. It should go quickly back to idle.
Charging System. Hook the meter up to the battery. At idle it should be around 13-14.5v depending on the bike. Some bikes don't charge until 1.5krpm -2krpm. Rev it to above 3krpm and it should DROP a bit. The dropping indicates the voltage regulator is working. It should never charge hotter than 15v. If you don't have a meter do this while watching the headlight. The light should have the same brightness throughout the whole test.
Brakes. Check disc brakes by looking at the wear indicator on the pad, it will be a little groove in the middle of the pad. Run a fingernail along the rotor, some roughness is normal but you shouldn't be able to catch you nail. Check drum brakes by depressing lever and looking at the stamped wear indicator where the pivot comes out of the drum.
Clutch. Ease of pull is pretty important if you don't want a sore left hand after 10 minutes. During the test ride the bike should quickly engage when you let out the clutch; if it hangs for a bit thats a bad sign. Get into a higher gear and open the throttle wide to stress the clutch a bit, if it slips and the RPMs go up while losing power that's a bad sign.
Forks. Hold the front brake and depress the forks. If you can depress them all the way just with your body they're dead. Look for oil residue on the forks after you depress them. This would indicate a bad fork seal.
Tires. Kicking them is a great way to look naive. Look for dry rot on the sidewalls or in the treads. Treads should pass the penny test, stick a penny in the tread, it should reach lincolns upside down head.
Fuel tank. Open up the fuel tank and look for visible rust. A flashlight is handy for this. Small rust spots are fairly normal in older bikes. Rust spots bigger than a pencil eraser, or that look flaky or crumbly are not so good (if the fuel is low enough go ahead and stick a finger in there and give it a wipe). A fuel filter on the bike is a good sign you need to look in the tank.
Chain/ Belt. Check chain or belt for vertical travel in the drive and return section. Should be about 1 inch in the middle section. Pull a few links off the rear sprocket, should have about 1/4inch clearance. For both the chain and belt look at the axle tensioners on the back of the swing arm, they should have plenty of tightening room left. If they're all the way at the end, the chain/belt is stretched to the end of its life. For the belt look for cracks although I don't know what the tolerance is for a cracking belt. Shaft drives are fairly maintenance free, just make sure they turn freely.
Sprocket. Look for worn teeth. In very general terms they'll be asymmetric, have lobed teeth, or look kind of pointy instead of nubby.
Electrical. Straightforward. Hit all the buttons and brake levers and they should do their job.
The above, excluding the deal breakers, may not keep you from buying that bike. If you feel comfortable replacing a set of tires or cleaning a carb, go for it. But at least you can be aware of the issue and be sure the price is adjusted accordingly. Any questions or concerns, consult the Pros at Broward Motorsports Miami.